Types of Lace Fabric: A Buyer’s Guide for Garment Manufacturers

Most “types of lace” guides are written for brides. This one is written for the person who has to buy 300 metres of it, get it through a factory and have it survive the customer’s washing machine. We group lace the way a merchandiser does: first by how it is made, then by fibre, then by what it shows.

1. By construction

Raschel / knitted lace (the workhorse)

Warp-knitted on Raschel machines, this is the base for almost all stretch lace and most nylon-cotton lace. Fast to produce, consistent from roll to roll, dyeable, and the most economical per metre. If you are making lingerie, sleepwear, bodycon dresses or blouses at volume, this is where you start.

Jacquard lace

Here the pattern is knitted in rather than embroidered on, using a jacquard attachment that controls individual guide bars. The result is a lace with the motif and the ground made in one pass — no thread on the back, no embroidery to catch, and a cleaner reverse side. See our jacquard lace range. Read more in our guide to jacquard vs embroidered vs printed lace.

Embroidered lace

Thread is stitched onto a sheer mesh ground with computer embroidery. It allows raised, dense or multicoloured motifs and precise placement — necklines, hem borders, yokes. Heavier than jacquard, higher cost per metre, and the mesh ground shows through. Our computer embroidery group is the largest single construction we hold.

Corded lace

A heavier cord traces the outline of the motif, giving depth and structure. The classic bridal and eveningwear lace; also used for occasion blouses. Coiled cord lace is the more sculptural version.

Eyelash lace

Fine fringed threads extend past the scalloped edge like lashes. Because the selvedge is finished, it needs no hemming — which is why lingerie and sleepwear makers ask for it first. Quality is judged by lash density and whether the lashes shed. Our eyelash lace comes in nylon, nylon-cotton and polyester bases.

Laser-cut lace

Motifs are cut with a laser, sealing the edge as it cuts. No fraying, no overlocking, a very clean modern look. Popular for seamless lingerie and activewear trims. See laser-cut lace and free-cut lace.

Sequin and chenille lace

Sequin lace carries sequins on an embroidered ground for eveningwear and bridal. Chenille lace has a raised velvety pile that reads as texture rather than pattern — collars, cuffs, outerwear detail.

Printed lace

A plain lace ground printed with florals, paisley or animal patterns. The fastest way to get a seasonal print at lace price points. Our printed lace range is mostly polyester-spandex for colourfastness.

2. By fibre

Fibre Hand Dyeable Best for
Nylon-spandex Smooth, with stretch and recovery Yes Lingerie, bodycon, fitted dresses
Nylon-cotton Softer, drier, more natural Yes, takes dye well Dresses, blouses, bridal, childrenswear
100% nylon Light, crisp, sheer Yes Classic fine lace, overlays
Polyester / poly-spandex Slightly firmer Limited; most colourfast Printed lace, budget lines, items washed often
Milk fibre, feather yarn, crinkle mesh Silky / fluffy / textured Varies Fashion pieces that need a point of difference

Rule of thumb: nylon-based lace for anything that must stretch or be dyed to a Pantone; polyester for anything that will be washed hard or printed.

3. Specs that matter on the purchase order

  • Width. Most lace is 150 cm; some 120–145 cm. Always confirm usable width — the width inside the scallops, not edge to edge.
  • Composition. Ask for lab-tested composition, not the mill’s nominal figure. Ours is on every product page.
  • Stretch and recovery. For lingerie, at least 20% stretch across the width and full recovery after ten pulls.
  • Repeat. The pattern repeat length affects marker efficiency and matching at seams.
  • Minimums. From stock we cut from 30 metres per colour; custom dyeing starts at 300 metres per colour with a 7–10 day lab dip. See quality & sampling.

Which lace for which product

  • Lingerie: nylon-spandex stretch lace, eyelash lace, laser-cut trims.
  • Sleepwear: eyelash lace, nylon-cotton lace.
  • Dresses and blouses: nylon-cotton lace, jacquard, printed lace.
  • Bridal and eveningwear: corded lace, sequin lace, embroidered lace on mesh.
  • Outerwear detail: chenille, feather yarn.

Sourcing lace for a collection? Send us the end use, the base you have in mind and the metres per colour, and we will post up to five free swatches within 48 hours anywhere in Vietnam. Request swatches or message us on Zalo / WhatsApp +84 362 887 928.